Tony's TR-4 Vintage Racer Development

(click on thumbnails below for larger picture)

Here's how the beast looked when I bought it

Before-rebuild-1.jpg (57958 bytes)    Before-rebuild-2.jpg (54637 bytes)    Before-rebuild-3.jpg (49242 bytes)

Before-rebuild-4.jpg (45563 bytes)    Before-rebuild-5.jpg (65661 bytes)    Before-rebuild-6.jpg (56669 bytes)

Before-rebuild-7.jpg (68108 bytes)    Before-rebuild-8.jpg (67633 bytes)

Here's my ongoing progress:


001-Engine-out.jpg (71689 bytes)    002-tub-disassembly.jpg (72739 bytes)    003-tub-disassembly.jpg (73730 bytes)

004-tub-disassembly.jpg (61959 bytes)

Passenger floor repair

005-pass-floor-out.jpg (58086 bytes)    006-pass-floor-out.jpg (54076 bytes)    007-pass-floor-out.jpg (61167 bytes)

008-pass-floor-in.jpg (57786 bytes)    009-pass-floor-in.jpg (56626 bytes)

Passenger Sill repair

010-pass-sill-out.jpg (49379 bytes)    011-pass-sill-out.jpg (55706 bytes)    012-pass-sill-in.jpg (67194 bytes)

013-pass-sill-in.jpg (50691 bytes)

Drivers floor repair

014-drivers-floor-in.jpg (59798 bytes)    015-drivers-floor-in.jpg (44461 bytes)    016-drivers-floor-in.jpg (59629 bytes)

Rear valance repair - I had to cut apart and re-weld the new valance I bought because the "wings" that run up by the tail lights were welded on crooked.

017-Rear-valance-out.jpg (94055 bytes)    018-rear-valance-out.jpg (89252 bytes)    019-rear-valance-in.jpg (73904 bytes)

Front valance repair - old valance has the dents from someone trying to tow the car with a chain to get it started.  Most Tr-4's have both front and rear valances dented up from the lucas electrics - the rear from trying to push-start the car, the front from towing the dead car.

020-front-valance-b4.jpg (86187 bytes)    021-front-valance-b4.jpg (85706 bytes)    022-front-valance-out.jpg (84254 bytes)

023-front-valance-out.jpg (84307 bytes)    024-front-valance-in.jpg (87697 bytes)    025-front-valance-in.jpg (80337 bytes)

I got a head from Jack Wheeler that has been milled 0.175" and has been "pinned".  As Jack described it to me, to pin the head, you drill and tap holes around the circumference of the combustion chamber and screw epoxy coated hardened set screws into them through to the other side of the water jacket before milling the head.  These pins are located where the head meets the cylinder liners.  Here's a CRUDE drawing showing the location of the pins.

Tr-4 head pins.jpg (35961 bytes)

Here's a better drawing based on further feedback.  Since posting this head modification, I've gotten feedback from Greg Solow and Kas Kastner.  Greg mentioned that you can use 10-24 machine screws in place of the hardened set screws.  He also mentioned that you use 3 pins by the water jacket hole next to each exhaust port about 3/8" apart.  Kas mentioned that if you use hardened set screws you must be careful having the head milled.  The set screws will take out the cutter, but surface grinding works well in place of milling.

TR4 head pins 2.jpg (61888 bytes)

Here's the same drawing, but showing the pins present in the head I got from Jack Wheeler.  You'll notice that there are fewer pins - the inner cylinders don't have the pins opposite the intake valves, and there are 2 pins by all of the water jacket holes except for the front one where there are the three that Solow mentions.

TR4 head pins 3.jpg (60706 bytes)

Here's a scan of a kill switch instruction page in response to an inquiry on the vintage race list:

Kill Switch2.jpg (277214 bytes)

Here's an alternate wiring method:

Kill Switch3.jpg (170155 bytes)