Tony's TR-4 Vintage Racer Development
(click on thumbnails below for larger picture)
Here's how the beast looked when I bought it
Here's my ongoing progress:
Stripped...
Passenger floor repair
Passenger Sill repair
Drivers floor repair
Rear valance repair - I had to cut apart and re-weld the new valance I bought because the "wings" that run up by the tail lights were welded on crooked.
Front valance repair - old valance has the dents from someone trying to tow the car with a chain to get it started. Most Tr-4's have both front and rear valances dented up from the lucas electrics - the rear from trying to push-start the car, the front from towing the dead car.
I got a head from Jack Wheeler that has been milled 0.175" and has been "pinned". As Jack described it to me, to pin the head, you drill and tap holes around the circumference of the combustion chamber and screw epoxy coated hardened set screws into them through to the other side of the water jacket before milling the head. These pins are located where the head meets the cylinder liners. Here's a CRUDE drawing showing the location of the pins.
Here's a better drawing based on further feedback. Since posting this head modification, I've gotten feedback from Greg Solow and Kas Kastner. Greg mentioned that you can use 10-24 machine screws in place of the hardened set screws. He also mentioned that you use 3 pins by the water jacket hole next to each exhaust port about 3/8" apart. Kas mentioned that if you use hardened set screws you must be careful having the head milled. The set screws will take out the cutter, but surface grinding works well in place of milling.
Here's the same drawing, but showing the pins present in the head I got from Jack Wheeler. You'll notice that there are fewer pins - the inner cylinders don't have the pins opposite the intake valves, and there are 2 pins by all of the water jacket holes except for the front one where there are the three that Solow mentions.
Here's an alternate wiring method:
